Be that as it may, dogmeat is plenty popular. A few sources seem to think that using dogs as food began during and after the Korean war, when there just wasn't much of anything to eat. But from what I can tell, the practice goes back centuries. It came to Korea from China.

It's been nominally illegal in Korea since 1991. But the law is limited, and it's mostly been enforced only for the sake of appearances, usually when Korea is for some reason unusually visible internationally. For example, when the Olympics were held in Korea, the government used the law to push boshintang (dogmeat stew) restaurants off the main streets and into the back alleys of Seoul. More recently there was another fuss in advance of the World Cup Soccer match in the spring of 2002.

But they're still here, and if you're so inclined, a little searching through the alleyways of any major Korean city will turn up restaurants which offer dog stew (originally called Kae Jang Kuk, now commonly known as Boshintang or Satcholtang). Just look for the sign with a picture of a dog on it.

One reason dog meat is still popular, even with the entire western world tut-tutting, is that Koreans are sold on its alleged health benefits. In fact, legal or not, dog meat is often prescribed by doctors for Koreans with debilitating diseases, and for patients recovering from surgery.

The idea that dogmeat is healthy goes back many years and again is probably based on Chinese influence. Because dogs don't perspire, their flesh is supposed to improve resistance to Korea's thick summer heat. Dog meat is also supposed to cure male impotence and improve normal male sexual performance. (Maybe that's what some of that Korean spam I get is talking about. ;-)

In spite of the laws and the international dim view, dogmeat has moved from fourth to third place in popularity in recent years. Koreans now eat more dogmeat than beef -- about 3 million dogs a year, by some estimates -- but because it's nominally illegal, there are no regulations on dogmeat production. Some legislators have proposed that dogs be classified as livestock so that the government can set standards for production sanitation. There's also talk of regulating the conditions under which dogs are raised and slaughtered. Those conditions are a real sore point for animal activists worldwide, who argue that the dogs are abused.

Koreans are well aware that much of the world disapproves of this custom. Despite the fact that over 6,000 restaurants nationwide serve boshintang, and some Koreans (especially men) down it enthusiastically, many other Koreans regard dogmeat more as a tonic or medication. Some say that they take it only under a doctor's orders. Although some are defensive or even defiant, others are actually apologetic.

Since most western food animals aren't usually kept as pets (rabbits being one possible exception), you might be surprised to know that Koreans do live with dogs and love them. Mostly they prefer small dogs; the pedigreed ones are considered more intelligent. Large, mixed breed dogs are not so lucky, though. Dark-colored large dogs are assigned guard duty and seldom get to live inside. Light-colored large dogs are often eaten.

You'd think cats would be perfect pets for such a crowded urban nation, but they've been slow to catch on. Some Koreans still believe they harbor disease, and have strong superstitions about them. These attitudes are changing in younger people, though. In the 2001 film Take Care of my Cat (trailer), one character adopts a kitten over her grandmother's protests that "Cats are too sneaky to keep." She replies, "Oh, Grandmother, nobody believes that any more." And in fact since Margaret first arrived in Korea, in February of 2000, we've gradually seen more and more pet cats there. Cat food and kitty litter are even showing up more frequently in the pet shops (though still at fairly stiff prices). But I'm sure it'll be many years before pet cats are as common in Korea as they are in the states.

South Korea continues to adopt Western ideals and customs, but so far they keep on eating dogs. Still, many other long-held practices are falling by the wayside, so maybe 10 years from now boshintang will be a rarity. Until then, it might help to remember that other nations are sometimes appalled by our customs too - just consider what Europeans think of the US's enthusiastic support for the death penalty.