But size matters. One seldom sees medium or large dogs kept as pets -- these are most often used as guard dogs or turned into boshintang. Rather, Koreans favor the smallest purebred dogs. They often dote on their tiny pets, carrying them about and keeping them carefully groomed and decorated. Pink-dyed ears, as on this dog, are a surprisingly common sight.

Of course there are challenges in keeping dogs in such a crowded nation, and it must be difficult for Koreans, whose homes are consistently spotless, to cope with animal fur and tracked-in dirt. Japan is in much the same situation; ever enamored of technology, they've developed bizarre electromechanical pets. Meanwhile, a Korean businessman has a lower-tech answer for those who want a dog's affection without the space, care, or cleaning problems: dog cafes, patterned after the very popular internet cafes (PC bangs).

But for the most part, Koreans simply adapt to the extra chores and expense, and enjoy their pets. Perhaps as they think more of dogs as pets, they'll think of them less as livestock -- but don't bet on it.