In many smaller cities, bus and train stations may not have signs in English. If you're traveling alone (which Koreans seldom do, by the way), you should have a Korean friend write the Hangul characters for your destination (and source!) before you go, so you can match them up with the signs and placards on the buses. If you make a mistake, the driver will most likely catch it -- bus drivers usually check your ticket before pulling out, and will help you find the right bus.

Taxicabs, most of which now run on LP gas to reduce exhaust emissions, are ubiquitous: if Korea doesn't have one of the world's highest per-capita taxi count, it certainly seems as if it does. One seldom has to wait more than a minute or two for a cab at most hours of the day. The cost is remarkably reasonable. The meter-drop fare is 1500 won, and in a relatively small city such as Kangnung, the total is typically around US$3 for most in-town destinations. Rates are higher after midnight (the meter keeps track of time). Koreans seldom tip cab drivers.

Deluxe taxis are easily spotted by their black color. There's very little difference in the service, though. For more than double the price, you get leather seats, an older driver (who may or may not drive more conservatively), and not much else.

Don't even try to speak English to a cab driver. Very few of them will understand. A few years ago, Seoul developed a system which was supposed to provide on-demand translation via radio for cabbies, but it wasn't very successful. Your best bet is to have a Korean friend write down your destination for the driver.

Some teachers report that big-city cab drivers are reluctant to pick up Western fares because they (the drivers) don't speak English. That was never a problem for us. But if you live in Seoul or Pusan and have trouble, you might try wearing a face-concealing hat.

The practice of hapsung (cabbies picking up additional fares after one is already in the taxi) is nominally illegal but still sometimes practiced. Because of the complexities of fare computation (and some alleged crime risks in the larger cities), I recommend that you not get into a cab if the driver already has a passenger.

If a Korean man approaches you in the airport and asks if you need a cab ride into the city, use caution. Scam artists have proliferated since Inchon Airport opened without good public transportation into downtown Seoul. These bogus cabbies will quote you a lowball price in the airport, but when you arrive at your destination it will suddenly develop that you "misunderstood" the driver.

Avoid drivers without uniforms and without cab markings on their vehicles. If you do accept a ride from one of these drivers, have him write down the quoted price on a piece of paper, and keep it. Also note down his license tag. This may be enough to make him honest -- or to make him disappear.

One final note. Korean cabbies are aggressive drivers, and taxi rides during rush hour are not for the faint of heart. At any time, in fact, they are probably best experienced while absorbed in lively conversation with another passenger.